Alex M. Stavnitser

28.02.2011 – 21.12.2011

Last summer, hitting a rockfall and regaining consciousness after a time, I realized that life may be interrupted unexpectedly, without notice. And it turns out that you did not do a lot of things that could be done, but for some reason kept putting it off and set aside: still have time. And one of them, the most important - not told friends that he had long wanted to say but did not say (it was not the case, then the mood of the occasion does not fit). So before I could tell what was supposed to, Loesche ... I owe him in his life. And not just me. Alex was in the seventies, one of the leaders of Odessa and Ukrainian Mountaineering, has made a number of interesting challenging first ascents in the Crimea and in the Big Mountains. Very strong-willed person, very brave, he was always to win. Several years ago we were in the Crimea, Lesha, and I invited him to go to Kushkae 2B on the classics. Age is not a small (under seventy), and shape the course of time confused. Actually, I was hoping that Alex will go the "second". But he set a condition - if you go, then only the "first"! Crimean deuce - is the complexity of the trip to Fr 4-5. And Alex was leading the whole trip! And throughout his life - Alex was the leader, was the "first", opening up new ways of others. Alex was a very active person, always finding things to do, which was given in full. Working at the camp "Terskol" USSR Ministry of Defense, he organized a massive army alpiniad Elbrus. Becoming a nachuchem "Shhelda" he built a stand for education and testing equipment insurance, which in those days was a transcendent step forward in the methodology training climbers. By bringing the staff of instructors odnodumtsev he led an ordinary at the time the camp in one of the best in the USSR. Then there was the creation of the Caucasus "Training Center" Elbrus ", which he headed. This camp for several years (before the collapse of the USSR) actually became the center of mountaineering, which conducted training of trainers, climbers, promalpinistov, special forces, border guards, etc. Where are the best instructors and trainers of the Union not only shared their experiences, but also carried out research in various fields of climbing . Where ordinary climbers wanted to get, knowing that there is "the most-most" progressive. It was this organization that is trying to become the Higher School of Mines is now FAR, but created and function well for another twenty-five years ago! Then there was the restructuring and breakup. "Inter-ethnic conflicts" and the first manifestations of nationalism in "liberating" peoples. Alex returned to Odessa in torn jeans and a backpack, in which instead of almost all their possessions to them more than a decade of living in the Caucasus. Again, he found an interesting thing: the first in the USSR has developed and established production and installation of artificial rock climbing walls. How he managed to build up to the complete collapse of the USSR: Kazan, Nizhny Novgorod, Kirov, Kuibyshev, Tbilisi, even in the Altai in Biisk! For more than thirty! And here he was the first! Over time, there were serious business. One of his lines was the construction of a new port in Ukraine. Starting, as it always "from scratch", Alex has built a modern port, which is one of the biggest ports in Ukraine! Sets out a new business, Alex had never before ports are built and generally knew little about them, so consult with leading experts in the field of construction and operation of ports, and getting a little hopeful predictions. But his determination, non-standard thinking, and, most importantly, hard work, have led to success! Here then began trying to take away and redistribute! Over time and through seventy Sharikova selection raiding has become an integral part of our lives. Once I invited Alexis Mikhailovich go to the mountains. He said: "I love climbing! But life in the "business" requires me to not less than signs: so much adrenaline, I have not been allocated to the most complex routes! "Alex has never refused to help mountaineers and climbers, has become a regular sponsor of many athletes who constantly provides charity care for the sick climbers, families the dead and victims, sponsored the expedition and the ascent of the individual, paid for the publication of books about mountain climbing and much more. The only request it each time was: "I give money, but you never told anyone about this!" Alex had a lot to do for us, for me. But the main thing - it became for us an example of a real man: a bold, decisive, strong-willed, intelligent, sensitive (he played the violin), and never limp (even when terminally ill!) Do not become Alexei Mikhailovich! Bitter and painful! And tell him everything I had not had time ...